Next comes the really tricky bit. You’ll definitely need a cutting board of some sort for this part, because the blade of the bevel cutter will go right through the mountboard card. Lay your metal ruler on the card along the line you just drew. You’ll need it to overlap by a couple of inches at the end from which you start cutting, to give the cutter something to line up on. Take the bevel cutter, extend the blade, and lay it along the ruler, so that the bevelled blade is pointing outwards towards the edge of the card. This is very important, because otherwise – obviously – your bevel cut will be backwards. Hold the ruler down with a very firm grip, because you’ll have to use quite a bit of force to cut through the card, and if it slips you’ll end up with a crooked edge. Push the blade into the card, and then slowly and evenly drag it along the ruler.
Go round all four sides with the cutter, making sure to go right up to the corners, and if you’ve done it right you should end up with something that looks like… (* whips out perfectly cut finished example from under desk *) …this one that I made earlier.
Attaching the print to the mat card is easy. Simply turn the print face down and put four short strips of sticky tape around the edges.
Turn the print back over so the the sticky side of the tape is upwards, and position the mat card over the print, carefully making sure that you have it properly lined up. When you’ve got it right press down on the edges to stick the mat card to the tape. You can then turn it all beck over and stick the print down more securely if necessary.
Finally pop the print and mat card into the frame, and replace the back, making sure that any stand or hanging loop is on the right end for the orientation of the print. Re-attach any clips, or bend the staples back into place, to re-fix the backboard.
It it’s all gone according to plan you should have something that looks like this, and hopefully the same number of fingers you started with.